Video Anecdotes

This was taken while sailing between Chappell Island and Trousers Point on Flinders Is. There was a gentle north westerly blowing as we left Chappell Is so the sails went up and without saying a word both of us just sat back, stowed paddles and sailed slowly towards Trousers Point which was about 8km away. En route as you can hear we caught one of the regular Coastal Waters forecasts broadcast from Tamar Sea Rescue on Channel 67. After some while of gently bobbling along Lynne mentioned the GPS was giving us an ETA at Trousers Point much later than we really wanted to get there, so in a flurry of paddling action to supplement the sailing we upped the speed and arrived at Trousers Point within 20 minutes.

Crossing Banks Strait from Swan Island to Lookout Point on Clarke Island. Big seas caused in part by the flooding tide against the wind and swell from the NW though both helped us along our way as we were moving along very nicely at 5 to 6 knots.

The South West

With the weather looking very settled for the rest of the week and into the weekend, heading on down the west coast was most definitely on. If we had been held up in Strahan for any length of time we would have pulled out there as it would have been getting a bit late in the year to continue.

Such a settled long term outlook was essential as once we left Cape Sorell, we would have little or no access to weather forecasts until well down the coast when we would pick up the Hobart Coast Radio weather broadcasts from Maatsuyker.

Loaded up with 3 weeks food we left Strahan late on Tuesday afternoon and headed out to camp at Pilot Bay just outside the Heads, ready for a long day the next day to Point Hibbs. We still had phone coverage so Dave texted us the latest coastal forecast, which couldn't have been better. The swell had dropped considerably too opening up the opportunity of more landing spots if needed. As we rounded Cape Sorell at dawn the next morning we couldn't believe how calm it was, a gentle easterly was blowing too so the sails went up and the final leg of our circumnavigation was under way. It would have been nice to explore some of the coast but even with such a settled forecast it was no place to hang around. Point Hibbs provides one of those invaluable sheltered landing spots which are very few and far between on this coastline, we came ashore in the very aptly named Sanctuary Bay. A beautiful spot with lovely camping.

The next day too was another 60km to Low Rocky Point. Such a familiar name from the coastal forecasts and met observations I was quite looking forward to actually being there. Again with such settled weather it was tempting to explore the coast and check out landing spots for future trips but our focus was on reaching Cowrie Bay another reliable landing spot a few kms past Low Rocky Point. A very welcome northerly wind picked up when we were about 15km north of LRP so we had a great sail down to the point and around to Cowrie Bay. It was very tempting with the wind being so favourable to continue on a further 20km or so to Nye Bay, but first we needed lunch after 6 hours or so in the kayak. Earlier in the year with longer days we would have definitely continued but not now with the days so short.

Our two days of settled NE/E weather were over with strong SW winds forecast for the next couple of days. As landing spots were now a little more frequent we continued on as we could land if the headwinds became too strong. Leaving Cowrie Bay at first light we had a good couple of hours of calm before the south westerly picked up and we headed into Nye Bay. This was not a very sheltered landing spot but again with the relatively low swell we were sure we would get ashore ok. It was tempting to head straight into the Giblin River but the surf looked a bit complicated so we landed on the beach through horrible big dumpers a few hundred meters north of the river mouth. This proved a bit of a mistake as there was absolutely nowhere to camp. We walked along the beach to look at the river mouth and felt sure we would find a camp on the southern bank of the river.

There was no alternative but to head out through the surf where we had landed and come into the river. It was a very tricky steep beach to get off; any surf beach is hard in the heavily laden double but this beach was so steep with big dumping waves just meters from the shore. Our tactic in this situation is for me to stand at the bow holding the boat at right angles to the surf, Lynne jumps in and puts her spraydeck on and I jump in as she paddles out past me. There is often no chance for me to put my spraydeck on but this is not so important as usually only a little water gets in. In this instance with the surf as it was the boat had a lot of water in it even before I got in, even more got in as we paddled out through the dumping surf so by the time we got completely trashed by the last 1.5/2m dumper we were awash!

So our first capsize of the trip!

Back to the beach and really not wanting to face the horrible dumping surf again there was nothing for it but to unload and carry our gear then drag the boat along the beach to the river mouth. At least this kept us warm.

Once in the haven of the Giblin River and settled into an absolutely magic camp on the duck banks we could relax.

The next day was much the same but no capsize. We headed off into the south westerly but only made it to the next bay south, Mulcahy Bay, as it was obvious there was no way we would reach Port Davey. We had read about a couple of sheltered gulches in the northern tip of the bay and sure enough as we weaved in through the rocks we entered a sheltered haven but the very rocky beach made landing a bit tricky. Once ashore we gathered driftwood logs and made a wooden 'slipway' for the kayak to keep it off the rocks as we dragged it above the high water mark. There were no obvious campsites but with a bit a clearing we just managed to fit the tent into a tight spot in the scrub.

I climbed up out of the gulch and up to the top of small hill as I guessed there may just be a chance we would pick up the weather broadcast from Maatsuyker at just after 6pm. I was right but only just, it was very broken but enough came through to give us an idea of what was happening in the next couple of days. Most importantly it seemed the south westerlies were abating so tomorrow we had a good chance of reaching Port Davey.

And we did, paddling the 39km to Spain Bay on a glorious sunny morning with hardly a breath of wind, then spent the afternoon having lunch and relaxing in the sun on the beach.

Again the trip to the top of the nearest hill for the weather at 6, which came through loud and clear this time, giving the green light for rounding South West Cape the next day.

Even though we knew we still had a good few days of exposed coastline to paddle before we could really relax, reaching Port Davey and the very familiar surrounding hills and coastline definitely lowered the stress and pressure we had felt all the way down the west coast. Knowing the coastline from here to Recherche so well it really felt like coming home.

I had heard of kayakers having to deal with really rough conditions off SW Cape due to the rebounding swells off the cliffs south of Window Pane Bay so we started about 3km off shore slowly heading in closer to see what the conditions were like. We needn't have worried though with the low southerly swell we ended up less than 500m from the Cape as we rounded the tip and the oh so welcome sight of the south coast opened up before us.

A hour or so later and we were ashore at Ketchem and another slight lessening of west coast stresses. The next day's forecast was for 10-20kn north easterlies with 25kn offshore, so at first we thought at least we could paddle around to New Harbour or even bash all the way to Louisa Bay. On second thoughts though the idea of a day bashing into a strong headwind didn't appeal and we had a day off.

As it turned out there was hardly a breath of wind all day but I think a rest day, the first since leaving Strahan was definitely needed.

The next day's forecast was very similar but feeling refreshed a few hours bashing into a strong headwind was slightly more acceptable. First we had to get off the beach. The swell had picked up on our rest day but had dropped back a bit but there were still some quite large 2m+ dumpers, which was surprising given the almost flat beach at Ketchem, it must shelve off steeply just offshore. The waves were dumping then running smoothly into the beach so getting off was easy and I had plenty of time to get my spraydeck on this time, we held our position waiting for a large set to finish then put the power on to get out beyond the break line before the next lot. But suddenly having committed ourselves and judged it wrong we copped a big dumper just as it broke.

Capsize number two! Bugger.

Second time we got it right and we were off.

Despite the forecast the sea was glassy, not a breath of wind as we glided along past Cox Bluff and headed for Louisa Bay. Just off Coxs a small motor launch came alongside and we were more or less berated by the skipper, "Don't you know there is a strong wind warning today. I just want to know what you think you are doing out here in that when there is a strong wind warning." He went on to say something about 3m seas as he obviously assumed that we would have capsized and drowned long before they reached that size. The evening forecast had not mentioned a strong wind warning for the south coast though there was one current for Tasman Is to SE Cape and I am not quite sure how he could expect 3m seas with an offshore NE wind when we were only a few kms out at most. A little later at 8.30 we listened to the latest forecast and sure enough there was still no strong wind warning for the South Coast.

I felt I was living a dream, for over 20 years I have wanted to paddle the South Coast and even though we were not sightseeing he we were in calm sunny conditions surrounded by Mount Louisa, the Ironbounds, PB, Pindars, Ile de Golfe, De Witt, Maat etc etc. Luuch at Little Deadmans and the luxury of actually having lunch at lunchtime. There have been too many long days in the kayak with no landing spots until mid or even late afternoon so lunch almost becomes the first course for dinner.

We chatted to some bushwalkers from WA who had had a hard time over the Ironbounds the day before, one of them kept complaining that the walk description didn't describe how hard the day is. They asked me if I knew the forecast, I could only give them the wind strength and direction with any certainty but did say if there was any rain with the change forecast overnight it wouldn't be much.

As we left Deadmans and headed towards Rocky Boat Inlet and got a view of the sky to the NW it was obvious we were in for a blast with big black nasty looking clouds filling the sky, and sure enough within 30mins we were just hammering along with only one sail up and it started to rain. Those bushwalkers would have been cursing me and my homemade weather forecast.

Rocky Boat Inlet is a beautiful spot; it is not on the South Coast Track and is well defended by thick scrub so few walkers make the effort. The offshore rocks seem to keep the fisherman away too as there were very few fire sites and virtually no beer cans which too many of the west coast sheltered bays and campsites are just littered with.

Lynne was pregnant with Louisa the last time we were at Rocky Boat - 20 years ago. The food drop for the South Coast Track trips we were guiding in those days was located here so every time we walked the track we would come over from Osmiridium to stock up for the last few days out to Cockle Creek.

We thought we had the south coast in the bag as the next day's forecast was for NW 10-20kn backing SW in the morning at similar speeds. Wind strength and directions to give us some exciting sailing and take us exactly where we wanted to go, the NW would take us around South Cape then the SW would blow us around SE Cape and as far north towards Huonville that daylight would allow.

It wasn't to be. Even before the alarm went off at 4.30 I could tell that the wind was already SW and was a very healthy 20kn. We put the billy on for coffee anyway but I knew we would not be heading off towards South Cape as it would mean at least three hours of the wind and a horrible steep breaking sea right on the beam. So we settled in, to at least 11am; if the wind had dropped by then we could have lunch pack up and be on the water by 12 and still get to Cockle Creek. The south westerlies following a front quite often drop out more quickly than the forecasts predict but not today, the rain petered out during the morning and there was even some blue sky but the wind kept blowing.

With NE winds forecast for the following day we knew we would not get an easy ride to Cockle Creek but as it turned out we only had to bash into the wind from Whale Head to our lunch stop at Black Swan Lagoon. Rounding South Cape and SE Cape the seas were pretty smooth just a little chop left from the south westerly the day before.

As we approached Black Swan Lagoon we could see people on the beach which is unusual as there is no easy access, and as we landed of course it was another one of those Tasmanian moments - it was someone we knew, Rebecca and her two girls. She apologised for disturbing the deserted beach we had been expecting but on the contrary having had more than our fair share of deserted beaches over the last two months it was nice to meet up with a familiar face and have a chat.

By the time we had lunch the NE wind had dropped so we could anticipate getting a lot further north than we had originally expected. We were not sure where exactly especially as we did not have a map for the coast north of Southport and much of the coastline is rocky.

We could now though paddle much later than we had on the west and south coast where prudence dictated having at least a couple of hours daylight spare at the end of day. Muscles allowing we could get even get to Port Esperance after dark if we wanted to. Just north of Southport though, Lady Bay beckoned, a campsite Lynne had used in the past with work. We had paddled 65km but Rocky Boat Inlet seemed in another world compared to the benign waters of the lower Channel. The beach was steep and rocky but a very handy pile of seaweed provided an easy landing just above high water and an even easier launch the next morning. Whether it was this or the fact that we were camped very close to the kayak so didn't have to lug our gear very far or the fact that this was our last morning and the lure of Huonville and home was at full strength, or all of those reasons, but we were on the water at 6.15!

It was a nice day's paddle despite a bit of plod at times against a gentle NW wind and then the opposing Huon flow and the urge to just get there and finish. It also felt very strange to be on such calm water, for so many many weeks we had dealt with waves, swells and surf it seemed almost impossible that we were dealing with the same medium.

Then the last corner and a small knot of people gathered at the boat ramp to welcome us home. Meg and Louisa, of course, equipped with champagne and real glass glasses, wow! Kevin, Andrew and Sarah, Elizabeth and Rosie, Michael, Merlin, Kerry and John. Thanks so much for being there.

Dawn and Moonset, Cape Sorell.

Sanctuary Bay, Point Hibbs

Hibbs Pyramid at dawn.

The writing VSKC 2006 carved into this bit of wood at Sanctuary Bay and the ornate ropework and splicing indicate that a Victorian sea kayaking team must have had bit of time on their hands while camped here. I wonder how many days they were held up.

Nye Bay and the Giblin River mouth.

Duckbank campsite on the Giblin River.

Mulcahy Bay 'Gulch'

Mulcahy Bay campsite, the bush needed a little 'improvement' for us to fit the tent in.

Lovely sunny warm afternoon on the beach at Spain Bay.

'Weather Forecast Hill' above Spain Bay.

Approaching South West Cape, it seemed to take forever to get from here to the tip; we were down to 6kph, there must have been a current north up the coast.

Looking back to South West Cape.

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Huonville and our wonderful welcoming friends. 61 days and 1800km from this very spot.

The Grip Is Loosened.

Well we have made considerable progress since the last blog post, having arrived in Strahan at 5.30 yesterday after a 10 hour day from Granville Harbour.

Hanging out at Arthur River was sort of entertaining in a boring way, we got a lift into Smifton one morning and hit the Online Centre where I posted the last blog update.

We also got chatting to the Parks Ranger at 'the River' and ended up getting a lift with her up to Marrawah to the Cold Water Classic surf comp as she had to manage the access to the dunes and middens. Here we had one of those classic Tasmanian experiences bumping into two different people we knew, one of whom we had not seen for over 20 years, when we were guiding for World Expeditions.

The wx looked like it was settling down as the week progressed and more to the point the swell was dropping to a size (3 meters or less) that would enable us to get into the Conical Rocks 'harbour'. We had sort of lost track of the days so had left it a bit late to get back to the kayak for Thursday when northerlies/nw were forecast. With such wind we would in theory sail the 40km down to 'the Connies' by lunch time.

We had arranged with the Arthur River shop owner to drive us down to Temma to reduce the walking time back to Sandy Cape but then he put us on to some Telstra technicians who were heading down to the Cape in a helicopter on Wednesday. The next morning I had a chat to the Telstra guys and they didn't care and were quite happy for us to hitch a lift, then when the chopper arrived I realised I knew the pilot from Parks work - so we were set! It had taken us a day and a half to walk to Arthur River, it took 12 mins to get back. Cool.

The next morning we were off into the jobblyness of rebound, steepening swells and the roar of surf at 7.30. Once around the Cape both sails went up and we were off for an amazing downhill run to 'the Connies'. Being unfamilar with the area and knowing it can be tricky to get into, nervousness abounded - will we find the way in through the rocks? ... has the swell dropped enough? ... how much will the sea state with the N wind effect the entrance? ... and will we get there before the wind comes around to the NW and strengthens? Off the Pieman Heads the water was stained deep brown from the river water for kms offshore and surprisingly there were even signs of current too. Sails came down so we could see clearly where we were going; the basic instruction for entering Conical Rocks is to hug the shore and keep inside the sheltering offshore rocks. Easier said than done with 2.5/3.0 m swells breaking on the very rocky (but scenic) shore to our left. Suddenly there is the gap, between the mayhem of white water on our left and one rock ahead to the right which the swell waves were breaking over. The sea and swell were steepening in the gap but thank goodness didn't seem to be breaking and the white water spilling over that one rock wasn't extending very far. Go for it into what we later voted the jobbliest (technical sea kayaking term for rough unpredictable sea state!) water of the whole trip so far. Very very confused sea, going everywhere, the surface covered in foam from the waves breaking all around from the swell on the offshore rocks to our right, the rebound from the shore on our left and the sea waves from the wind right behind us. A 100m or so of lurching up, down, sideways and the surface calmed - we were in. Phew! I wouldn't have liked to attempt it in any even slightly bigger conditions.

Conical Rocks is an amazing place; once into what the locals call the 'Pop Hole' (for good reason) the water was mirror calm, with the crash and roar of the surf on the outer rocks only 200m away. We were still in our paddling gear chatting to some campers/fishermen who had watched us come in, when the wind changed north westerly and picked up a good few more knots. If we had been a few hours later once the nw sea had built up it would have been much more interesting getting in. Welcome to West Coast sea kayaking. Although in this instance we could have continued on to Granville Harbour 16km further south, if we couldn't get get in here, we probably wouldn't get in there either. We knew the next day was a no paddle day with strong SWesterlies forecast but the following day Saturday was a good day to continue on to Granville Harbour.

It was lovely a place to hang out; I even had mobile reception with my ordinary digi phone. Lynne's 3G phone battery was dead. Thanks to Kevin and Dave for texting the coastal water forecast as we are now well and truly out of range of the regular wx broadcast from Smithton on the marine vhf repeater network. In fact we won't get those again until we round SW Cape. To get that phone reception I did have to walk a km to a big granite boulder and stand on top with the phone held up above my head. We walked north over to the Pieman Heads in the afternoon, wild wild country.

With the swell dropping we were happy continuing to Granville Harbour on Saturday, where the swells if big can break right across the entrance. A headwind was forecast but as it was only 16km we had a cruisey morning and set off about 9.30. All morning it had been very still, not a breath of wind, until of course we turned south off Conical Rocks. We paid for our slack morning with a 3 hour slog into the wind. Again the nervousness of a new landing, as Granville is a spot that can be very tricky in big swells. Lots of breakers as we approached off the northern extent of the harbour but only the rare biggest swell was steepening enough to have a rim of white water along its top so we were fine; in fact all the rest of the afternoon we only saw two or three biggest swells steepening to that extent and they were still a long way off breaking.

The forecast was pretty perfect for the next day to Hells Gates and Strahan. It was going to be a long one, so the anticipated N/NE at 5 - 15knots with a NW change up to 25knots in the afternoon, would be perfect sailing for us. We were on the water at 7.20 out into a smooth windless day and calm seas, the endless swells even though 'small' still seem like mountain ranges rolling in from our right. They are so magnificent.

An hour or so south the coast changed from rocky to steep cliffs and we started heading out to sea away from the horrible rebound effect from the swells bouncing back. It didn't really abate until we were 3 or 4kms offshore. We didn't see much of Trial Harbour from this distance.

We paddled in the windless hot conditions well past Trial Harbour; our usual routine is a stop every 3 hours for a drink and something to eat. As we sat there I said, "whoever sees Cape Sorell lighthouse first doesn't have to buy the first round in the pub tonight". I had only just made that comment when without even trying, there it was, a thin white line visible only from the top of the biggest swells. Your round Lynney!

Just as we were setting off again there was a noticable change in the sea state but seemingly for no reason, then suddenly from the NE/ENE came the wind. Dark water spotted with white horses, sails up and in five minutes we went from hot windless boredom to the tension and struggle to stay upright in a straight line with a short steep beam sea. For an hour or so until it slowly dropped out we rocketed along, too fast to paddle as well at times, really nice to have the kms tick past without the slog of a calm sea.

As we neared Cape Sorell and Hells Gates more and more features became visible; the two lights marking the entrance, the headland itself and the dunes at the southern end of Ocean Beach. We were still 10 or 15km off Hells gates when I realised we were drifting south towards the lighthouse; there must have been a current coming south parallel to Ocean Beach. As we came closer we also realised we had an opposing current as our speed was down to 6kph - we should have been moving at around 7/8kph. Presuming it was the tide exiting Macquarie Harbour we anticipated a battle to get in through Hells Gates. Reaching the breakwater just outside the entrance we stopped for a rest and more to eat; 6 hours exactly since we left Granville. The anticipated hard paddling against the current didn't eventuate; we were up to 7kph + so the current that had slowed us out at sea mustn't have been the water leaving the Harbour.

Quick stop for lunch on the beach near the campground at the Heads and we were off on the last section to Strahan itself. There followed a farcical frustrating time with a huge area of shallows before rounding a point and Strahan was in sight.

Everyone knows the saying not to count your chickens and this is so true with sea kayaking. The day is not over until both feet are on dry ground and the boat is above the high tide mark. However close one is to the shore don't take it for granted that you will actually get there.

We rounded the point, Strahan in sight about 12km away, and we could even see the pub and relax - 'we've done it'!

Then the NW change arrived, the water turned white and it was a 3 hour slog virtually all the way to the beach near the caravan park. Lynne was storming along, I was having trouble keeping up at times, we were going to get there if it killed us! Relax, patience, concentrate on a perfect paddling technique so not a smidge of energy is wasted, don't watch the shore creeping past at a snail's pace as it is far too demoralising and put your mind anywhere else but Macquarie Harbour in a gale.

We hit the beach just short of 5.20, ten hours since we left Granville, 70km covered, our longest day (by 2km) so far.

Food and beer beckoned, so in the dreary grey drizzle of a west coast afternoon we put up the tent, jumped in the shower still in our kayaking gear and went to eat and drink.

What a day, what a place, amazing.

Just inside Conical Rocks having negotiated the gap between the surf on our left and the rocks on our right. Phew!

Conical Rocks harbour, from maelstrom of water to flat calm in about 200m.

Conical Rock campsite.

We had two evenings of spectacular sunsets at Conical Rocks.

The beach at Pieman Heads

In The Grips of The Wild West Coast

Well our progress has been well and truly halted by wild west coast weather. We reached Sandy Cape last Thursday and have not moved since; we could have gone on to Conical Rocks but knowing we would be stuck there anyway we decided to stay at Sandy Cape. We also knew we would lose reception of the coastal weather broadcast from Smithton on marine vhf if we headed much further south. We knew it was going to be a good few days so rather than go mad with boredom at the Cape and more importantly eat away literally at the food we have on board we bailed out to Arthur River where there is a shop. This meant travelling very light as Lynne has a day pack and I improvised a pack from 20 litre and 15 litre dry bags. We knew we had to walk at least 28km to Temma before there was any chance of a lift any further; we ended up walking about 35km that day before we stopped for the night in a stockmans hut. This was especially cosy as the strongest of the four fronts we have had pass since Thurs came through that night. Walked another 10km the next morning before finally getting a lift the last 6 kms to 'the River'. The shops there were pretty limited so set up the tent and hitched on to Marrawah and a better stocked shop. Walked about halfway back to 'the river' before getting a lift. I don't think I have walked so far, over 50km over two days for decades, though after 5 weeks paddling the legs could do with some exercise.

Had a day or so rest in Stanley in a very luxurious campground, we baked chicken one night and pizza the next using the camp kitchen facilities. From there we had a long crossing to Robbins Island and a fantastic camp on the beach. The next day the tides were right for heading west around the northern tip of Walker Is and then Woolnorth Point. We had a following current south well past the Doughboys. The swell was very low, about 1.5m but we still had a wake up call when we only just avoided two big breakers over a reef as we approached the Doughboys; there had been no sign of surf at that spot for 15mins or more as we approached. That night we had a comfortable camp on the grass at Green Point before continuing on to Temma the next day. It was here we first started getting an idea from a local fisherman that our dream run of weather was about to end. That evening he printed off for us from BouyWeather the outlook for the next week. He uses this forecast in preference to the Met Office Coastal Waters forecast. Being only 24km from Sandy Cape we continued on the next day, rang the Met Bureau for an idea of what was going to happen this week - westerly stream weather and building swells all week. We knew we would not be going anywhere in a hurry. Thurs this week looks like the best day but the swell might be too big for entering Conical Rocks. This is where two kayakers were rescued this summer because the swell was too big, as we seem to be repeatedly told by the locals.

The west coast is certainly an intimidating place; in thirty years of sea kayaking and all sorts of other adventuring and epics in all sorts of places around the world I have never felt so exposed and committed. All it needs though is plenty of food and patience, though if we are held up for much longer it possibly puts the rest of the trip from Strahan in doubt as it may not be prudent to continue south so late in the season. When (if!) we get to Strahan and the outlook is good then we may still go for it as from Port Davey onwards the coast is less committing.

Camped on the beach on Robbins Is just south of Mosquito Inlet. It was a long drag up the beach to get the kayak above the high tide mark, though this was the last camp with a big tidal range.

Our cosy remarkably sheltered spot at Sandy Cape, though we were only there two nights before we headed off to Arthur River.

Lynne had brought a daypack with her so was relatively well equipped for the walk out to Arthur River.

My 'backpack' improvised from 20litre and 15litre dry bags and some rope.

Making good use of the Parks BBQ facilities at Arthur River.

Waiting for our lift back to Sandy Cape.

Sandy Cape beach.

Venables Corner right at the southern end of Sandy Cape beach. Our kayak is just visible to the right of the 4wd track, thankfully just where we left it four days earlier.

Stanley I Presume

A quick few lines from what seems to be Stanley's only internet access, one of these horrible pielink kiosks, no usb so can't post any pics and it eats coins.

Our break in Bridport was a blast with Andrew, Sarah, Ottmar, Elizabeth and Louisa travelling all the way up from Hobart as it was a long w/e. Great meal together at the unit Elizabeth and Ottmar were staying in and another at the 'top' pub on the Sunday night. I would really recomend the meals there. We set off Monday morning as knowing the wx was forecast to deteriorate over the next day or so we were determined to get out of Bridport. Nearly got around East Sandy Cape but it didn't look very inviting with an increasingly big swell so turned back and set up camp for the day. After a big squall the wind almost dropped out completely so we packed up and were out on the water by early arvo reaching the Little Piper River 20km or more further west around West Sandy Cape.

Sat out the gales on Tuesday at the mouth of the Little Piper River and couldn't have asked for a better place to be storm bound. A really nice spot only marred by heaps of rubbish and 4wd damage. The SW headwinds forecast for the following day didn't really eventuate so we got as far as Low Head. Cathy visited us there with in her words a 'little Red Riding Hood' basket of goodies, fresh veg, cake, dried tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil. From Low Head to Penguin the next day the wind was good for sailing so we achieved our longest day so far on the trip - 68km as well as having two lunches.

After a strange lunch at Boat Harbour, where we seemed to be the resort's morning attraction, we camped in Rocky Cape National Park, at the last sandy beach west of Sisters Beach, well within reach of Stanley the next morning even without the wind helping us along.

Arrived in Stanley yesterday at high tide after a fantastic sail from Rocky Cape with an ever increasing NE wind and we are here until Monday when the Post Office opens to pick up our next lot of maps to take us to Strahan. Wx still really settled so it is slightly frustrating to be here over the w/e but a few days rest will go down well. Had a lovely roast chicken and vegies for dinner last night, so good to eat roast, and toast for breakfast too.

The usual routine today after a sleep in, fixing little things on the kayak, food stocktake ready to go shopping this afternoon and charging phone, vhf and AA batteries. Wx forecasts now broadcast from Smithton Coastguard at completely different times to Hobart Coast Radio and Tamar Coastguard; we just about start to remember the times when we move into a different broadcast area!

Can't say the N coast of Tas provides much sea kayaking interest though it wasn't as urban as I thought it could be. Camped on the grass just behind the beach at Penguin was very social with lots of dog walkers passing our tent. Sorry no pics, that will have to wait until Strahan - not that we took many since Bridport.

All Stations, All Stations - Double Trouble. Over.

Circumnavigation of Flinders Is completed and after a fantastic morning's sailing from Waterhouse Point, where we camped last night, we are now in Bridport. The north coast and most likely a lot of headwinds beckon.
Feeling really fit and strong now, surprise surprise, after nearly four weeks paddling. Crossed Banks Strait yesterday on an incredibly calm day. Left Spike Bay just about low tide aiming to be on the other side with the flood taking us around Cape Portland, and did it ever as the tides are quite big at present. The flow to the NW must have been 3 or 4 knots, we were aiming 40deg plus off to the south from our intended destination. Lunch on the western side of Cape Portland after four hours on the water. The forecast for the day was for 5 - 15kn NE to NW winds but there was hardly a zephyr all day so no sailing to help us along. Crossing to Waterhouse Point was another 26km crossing, nothing like a morning 26km crossing as a warm up for the same in the afternoon. Serenaded by dolphins in the middle of Ringarooma Bay for about 20mins including a couple that leapt completely out of the water.

On Tuesday we negotiated the Pot Boil, (the SE tip of Flinders) at just the end of the flood tide and only had to navigate around a few offshore breakers over the shallows. By the time we had lunch on Vansittart Is and continued on westward into Franklin Sound the tide had turned and we learnt quite how strong the tidal current was flowing east. We would have been paddling at around 7/8kph but were only making about 2 or 3kph over the ground, and this is at the start of the tide! This is why the Pot Boil is so named, it would be an interesting bit of water when such a current hits say a reasonable sized NE swell, throw in all the shoals and a bit of wind and it is a place you want to keep well away from, in any size boat.

Anyway a quick change of course to the south and we escaped the clutches of the eastward tide and continued on our way along the north coast of Cape Barren Island. All this tidal stuff makes for interesting kayaking EXCEPT when landing a fully laden double at low tide. Quite often the hardest work of the day is one trip up the beach for each of us with our gear for the night, the kayak is then light enough to drag above the high tide line.

Sheltering from the thunder and lightning squall that would have caught us 4km offshore in the middle of crossing a big bay north of Whitemark. I have read too many stories of sea kayakers being hit by lightning to be comfortable in that situation so we headed for the shore for a cuppa.

Lunch stop along the 40km of beach between North East River and Babel Island. We had paddled into the wind for 3 hours only to stop on a section of beach that looked identical to the spot we had left. Babel Is is on the horizon above the rear of the kayak.

Three of the dolphins that escorted us for about 20 minutes in the middle of Ringarooma Bay between Cape Portland and Waterhouse Point.

The hut we camped in on Cat Is (adjacent to Babel Is) in the middle of penguin and muttonbird rookeries. Mathew Flinders named Babel Is because of the cacophony of calls from the bird life. We can attest to the accuracy of this; the racket all night was unbelievable. If the noise reflects the nightlife these birds have then I wouldn't mind coming back as a penguin or muttonbird in a future life.

The Rest of The World, The Rest of The World, Double Trouble - Over

Whitemark - Shopping, Beer, Showers.

Spike Bay, Clarke Is. Landfall for most kayakers crossing Banks Strait, and it even has mobile coverage from somewhere on the mainland.


Trousers Point campsite last night just as we were settling in to bed.

Gale force NE made it a hard couple of hours paddling from Trousers Point to get here, Whitemark, just on high tide. As it dries at low tide for hundreds and hundreds of metres it was a choice of a very quick visit or the next high tide tomorrow morning. The thought of a another couple of hours into that wind and a generally southerly/westerly forecast for the next couple of days made the decision to have another cruisey day an easy one to make. It was supposed to be a rest day yesterday, though the climb of Strzelecki Peak including 8km rtn trip along the road from the Trousers Pt campsite tired the unused leg muscles a bit. It really is fantastic to be back in the Flinders Group again; this has to be some of the best sea kayaking in the world. Big tides, big weather (sometimes) exposed coastlines, surf and the most magical beaches and granite shorelines. Endless offshore islands to explore too, you could circumnavigate Flinders without actually landing on the island itself (now there is an idea for a future trip). Having just paddled the Bay of Fires coast, this area, especially the SW coast of Clarke, Spike Bay and Preservation Is, makes that bit look boring.

Interesting crossing of Banks Strait from just after slack water with the start of the flood tide, good SW wind, one sail, GPS keeping us on course sometimes aiming off 30deg or more to the east to counteract the northwesterly flood current. Steep seas and lots of jobbly water like big rebound effect but no land within kilometers. Maybe it is just the relief of finishing a big crossing but the Spike Bay campsite is just a fantastic spot.


We stopped off on Mt Chappell Is enroute to Trousers Pt and didn't see one tiger snake let alone the monsters that are supposed to live there! I think it is a myth though I didn't wander very far from the beach in my shorts and sandals.


The night before we crossed Banks Strait we camped in a cosy spot out of the wind and sheltered from the frequent showers near one of the Bay of Fires Walk's standing camps, a rendezvous we tentatively arranged with Anna some weeks ago. Thanks Anna for the hospitality, I am sure we entertained the clients with our kayaking stories. The cheese was delicious, oh and the beer!


With a good forecast for the next few days we hope to make the NE tip of Flinders by Sunday ready for the long day to Babel Is, aiming to be in Bridport for the March long w/e. If anyone has any info on the Pot Boil please text, it sounds wild and looked it when we were there some years ago, I suppose we can't go too far wrong if we get there around slack water. Which slack water is best and which tide times to use are unkown at present.


Double Trouble, Out.

Kayak Trip Update

Strong wind warning for the north east today, 25kn headwinds, so we have left our cosy campsite just north of Cosy Corner and hitched into St Helens for shopping, lunch and surprisingly the Online Centre is open.

We left Huonville on Feb 9th and this is the first time we have been held up by the weather so we are doing pretty well. It seems finally our fitness has caught up with our aims, we are not waking to stiff back and shoulder muscles quite as much as the first week when it felt as if a truck had been driving backwards and forwards across our shoulders.

Am trying to upload some photos but they are being blocked by some program or other this end, I am trying one at a time, which seems to be working.

So far the highlights have been.

- simply leaving on the trip after the madness of the preceding couple of weeks, just too many jobs to tidy up including installing a new solar water heater on the roof.

- Crossing Storm Bay from Adventure Bay to Safety Cove (Port Arthur) discovering first hand why Storm Bay and Safety Cove are so named. For most of the crossing we had at least the forecast 25kn SSW winds so simply flew along with only one sail up. We averaged 10kph for the 50km crossing and the GPS recorded our maximum speed as 18kph! As the seas built towards Cape Raoul the double seemed to alternate between being a submarine with just two conning towers above water or a surf ski.

-We also had a great days sailing with a ESE breeze from Fortescue Bay to Maria Is. Working on the theory that if the going is good, keep going, we travelled nearly 60km and caught a big feed of Flathead for dinner too.

- Louisa and Megan drove all the way to Bicheno to meet us on Weds 17th, for two weary kayakers their energy and big smiles were very invigorating. They also brought loads of fresh vegies from the garden, beer for lunch and news and gossip from the outside world. It was very good to see them. We had a meal in the pub then they set off home for college and uni the next day.

-Not so much a highlight but significant none the less is the marine VHF handheld purchased for the trip.
http://www.icom-australia.com/products/marine/marine_ic-m35.html

Access to the coastal waters forecasts broadcast by Hobart Coast Radio four times a day is invaluable. We finally came up with a call sign the other day "Double Trouble" and called St Helens Sea Rescue for the forecast as we were not picking up the Hobart Coast Radio broadcast on the upper east coast. Then discovered I had not set it to scan the Hobart Radio channel in the NE!

We have also seen loads of seals and dolphins, the seals basking, seemingly asleep with flippers in the air, presumably for cooling purposes. We have been able to get very close before they become aware of our presence and all disappear in a swirl, only to pop up all around us to check out what has disturbed their reverie. The dolphins have escorted us for hundreds of meters, swimming around and under the boat.


Campsite on Butlers Point at the northern end of the Friendly Beaches. We thought this corner would be sheltered from the surf which for the east coast and a 2m swell was quite big. It wasn't, and the beach was littered with kayak unfriendly rocks too; luckily a couple of reefs just outside the break line provided enough shelter for us to land comfortably.

This is on our long day to Maria Is, lovely ESE breeze pushing us along all day. The new sails (slightly bigger than and not stretched like the old ones) and heavily laden double have transformed our sailing ability, even making good progress with the wind well forward of the beam with no excessive leeway . This enabled us to sail much of the way the next day from Maria Is to Schouten Is with a ENE/NE wind.