The Grip Is Loosened.

Well we have made considerable progress since the last blog post, having arrived in Strahan at 5.30 yesterday after a 10 hour day from Granville Harbour.

Hanging out at Arthur River was sort of entertaining in a boring way, we got a lift into Smifton one morning and hit the Online Centre where I posted the last blog update.

We also got chatting to the Parks Ranger at 'the River' and ended up getting a lift with her up to Marrawah to the Cold Water Classic surf comp as she had to manage the access to the dunes and middens. Here we had one of those classic Tasmanian experiences bumping into two different people we knew, one of whom we had not seen for over 20 years, when we were guiding for World Expeditions.

The wx looked like it was settling down as the week progressed and more to the point the swell was dropping to a size (3 meters or less) that would enable us to get into the Conical Rocks 'harbour'. We had sort of lost track of the days so had left it a bit late to get back to the kayak for Thursday when northerlies/nw were forecast. With such wind we would in theory sail the 40km down to 'the Connies' by lunch time.

We had arranged with the Arthur River shop owner to drive us down to Temma to reduce the walking time back to Sandy Cape but then he put us on to some Telstra technicians who were heading down to the Cape in a helicopter on Wednesday. The next morning I had a chat to the Telstra guys and they didn't care and were quite happy for us to hitch a lift, then when the chopper arrived I realised I knew the pilot from Parks work - so we were set! It had taken us a day and a half to walk to Arthur River, it took 12 mins to get back. Cool.

The next morning we were off into the jobblyness of rebound, steepening swells and the roar of surf at 7.30. Once around the Cape both sails went up and we were off for an amazing downhill run to 'the Connies'. Being unfamilar with the area and knowing it can be tricky to get into, nervousness abounded - will we find the way in through the rocks? ... has the swell dropped enough? ... how much will the sea state with the N wind effect the entrance? ... and will we get there before the wind comes around to the NW and strengthens? Off the Pieman Heads the water was stained deep brown from the river water for kms offshore and surprisingly there were even signs of current too. Sails came down so we could see clearly where we were going; the basic instruction for entering Conical Rocks is to hug the shore and keep inside the sheltering offshore rocks. Easier said than done with 2.5/3.0 m swells breaking on the very rocky (but scenic) shore to our left. Suddenly there is the gap, between the mayhem of white water on our left and one rock ahead to the right which the swell waves were breaking over. The sea and swell were steepening in the gap but thank goodness didn't seem to be breaking and the white water spilling over that one rock wasn't extending very far. Go for it into what we later voted the jobbliest (technical sea kayaking term for rough unpredictable sea state!) water of the whole trip so far. Very very confused sea, going everywhere, the surface covered in foam from the waves breaking all around from the swell on the offshore rocks to our right, the rebound from the shore on our left and the sea waves from the wind right behind us. A 100m or so of lurching up, down, sideways and the surface calmed - we were in. Phew! I wouldn't have liked to attempt it in any even slightly bigger conditions.

Conical Rocks is an amazing place; once into what the locals call the 'Pop Hole' (for good reason) the water was mirror calm, with the crash and roar of the surf on the outer rocks only 200m away. We were still in our paddling gear chatting to some campers/fishermen who had watched us come in, when the wind changed north westerly and picked up a good few more knots. If we had been a few hours later once the nw sea had built up it would have been much more interesting getting in. Welcome to West Coast sea kayaking. Although in this instance we could have continued on to Granville Harbour 16km further south, if we couldn't get get in here, we probably wouldn't get in there either. We knew the next day was a no paddle day with strong SWesterlies forecast but the following day Saturday was a good day to continue on to Granville Harbour.

It was lovely a place to hang out; I even had mobile reception with my ordinary digi phone. Lynne's 3G phone battery was dead. Thanks to Kevin and Dave for texting the coastal water forecast as we are now well and truly out of range of the regular wx broadcast from Smithton on the marine vhf repeater network. In fact we won't get those again until we round SW Cape. To get that phone reception I did have to walk a km to a big granite boulder and stand on top with the phone held up above my head. We walked north over to the Pieman Heads in the afternoon, wild wild country.

With the swell dropping we were happy continuing to Granville Harbour on Saturday, where the swells if big can break right across the entrance. A headwind was forecast but as it was only 16km we had a cruisey morning and set off about 9.30. All morning it had been very still, not a breath of wind, until of course we turned south off Conical Rocks. We paid for our slack morning with a 3 hour slog into the wind. Again the nervousness of a new landing, as Granville is a spot that can be very tricky in big swells. Lots of breakers as we approached off the northern extent of the harbour but only the rare biggest swell was steepening enough to have a rim of white water along its top so we were fine; in fact all the rest of the afternoon we only saw two or three biggest swells steepening to that extent and they were still a long way off breaking.

The forecast was pretty perfect for the next day to Hells Gates and Strahan. It was going to be a long one, so the anticipated N/NE at 5 - 15knots with a NW change up to 25knots in the afternoon, would be perfect sailing for us. We were on the water at 7.20 out into a smooth windless day and calm seas, the endless swells even though 'small' still seem like mountain ranges rolling in from our right. They are so magnificent.

An hour or so south the coast changed from rocky to steep cliffs and we started heading out to sea away from the horrible rebound effect from the swells bouncing back. It didn't really abate until we were 3 or 4kms offshore. We didn't see much of Trial Harbour from this distance.

We paddled in the windless hot conditions well past Trial Harbour; our usual routine is a stop every 3 hours for a drink and something to eat. As we sat there I said, "whoever sees Cape Sorell lighthouse first doesn't have to buy the first round in the pub tonight". I had only just made that comment when without even trying, there it was, a thin white line visible only from the top of the biggest swells. Your round Lynney!

Just as we were setting off again there was a noticable change in the sea state but seemingly for no reason, then suddenly from the NE/ENE came the wind. Dark water spotted with white horses, sails up and in five minutes we went from hot windless boredom to the tension and struggle to stay upright in a straight line with a short steep beam sea. For an hour or so until it slowly dropped out we rocketed along, too fast to paddle as well at times, really nice to have the kms tick past without the slog of a calm sea.

As we neared Cape Sorell and Hells Gates more and more features became visible; the two lights marking the entrance, the headland itself and the dunes at the southern end of Ocean Beach. We were still 10 or 15km off Hells gates when I realised we were drifting south towards the lighthouse; there must have been a current coming south parallel to Ocean Beach. As we came closer we also realised we had an opposing current as our speed was down to 6kph - we should have been moving at around 7/8kph. Presuming it was the tide exiting Macquarie Harbour we anticipated a battle to get in through Hells Gates. Reaching the breakwater just outside the entrance we stopped for a rest and more to eat; 6 hours exactly since we left Granville. The anticipated hard paddling against the current didn't eventuate; we were up to 7kph + so the current that had slowed us out at sea mustn't have been the water leaving the Harbour.

Quick stop for lunch on the beach near the campground at the Heads and we were off on the last section to Strahan itself. There followed a farcical frustrating time with a huge area of shallows before rounding a point and Strahan was in sight.

Everyone knows the saying not to count your chickens and this is so true with sea kayaking. The day is not over until both feet are on dry ground and the boat is above the high tide mark. However close one is to the shore don't take it for granted that you will actually get there.

We rounded the point, Strahan in sight about 12km away, and we could even see the pub and relax - 'we've done it'!

Then the NW change arrived, the water turned white and it was a 3 hour slog virtually all the way to the beach near the caravan park. Lynne was storming along, I was having trouble keeping up at times, we were going to get there if it killed us! Relax, patience, concentrate on a perfect paddling technique so not a smidge of energy is wasted, don't watch the shore creeping past at a snail's pace as it is far too demoralising and put your mind anywhere else but Macquarie Harbour in a gale.

We hit the beach just short of 5.20, ten hours since we left Granville, 70km covered, our longest day (by 2km) so far.

Food and beer beckoned, so in the dreary grey drizzle of a west coast afternoon we put up the tent, jumped in the shower still in our kayaking gear and went to eat and drink.

What a day, what a place, amazing.

Just inside Conical Rocks having negotiated the gap between the surf on our left and the rocks on our right. Phew!

Conical Rocks harbour, from maelstrom of water to flat calm in about 200m.

Conical Rock campsite.

We had two evenings of spectacular sunsets at Conical Rocks.

The beach at Pieman Heads

In The Grips of The Wild West Coast

Well our progress has been well and truly halted by wild west coast weather. We reached Sandy Cape last Thursday and have not moved since; we could have gone on to Conical Rocks but knowing we would be stuck there anyway we decided to stay at Sandy Cape. We also knew we would lose reception of the coastal weather broadcast from Smithton on marine vhf if we headed much further south. We knew it was going to be a good few days so rather than go mad with boredom at the Cape and more importantly eat away literally at the food we have on board we bailed out to Arthur River where there is a shop. This meant travelling very light as Lynne has a day pack and I improvised a pack from 20 litre and 15 litre dry bags. We knew we had to walk at least 28km to Temma before there was any chance of a lift any further; we ended up walking about 35km that day before we stopped for the night in a stockmans hut. This was especially cosy as the strongest of the four fronts we have had pass since Thurs came through that night. Walked another 10km the next morning before finally getting a lift the last 6 kms to 'the River'. The shops there were pretty limited so set up the tent and hitched on to Marrawah and a better stocked shop. Walked about halfway back to 'the river' before getting a lift. I don't think I have walked so far, over 50km over two days for decades, though after 5 weeks paddling the legs could do with some exercise.

Had a day or so rest in Stanley in a very luxurious campground, we baked chicken one night and pizza the next using the camp kitchen facilities. From there we had a long crossing to Robbins Island and a fantastic camp on the beach. The next day the tides were right for heading west around the northern tip of Walker Is and then Woolnorth Point. We had a following current south well past the Doughboys. The swell was very low, about 1.5m but we still had a wake up call when we only just avoided two big breakers over a reef as we approached the Doughboys; there had been no sign of surf at that spot for 15mins or more as we approached. That night we had a comfortable camp on the grass at Green Point before continuing on to Temma the next day. It was here we first started getting an idea from a local fisherman that our dream run of weather was about to end. That evening he printed off for us from BouyWeather the outlook for the next week. He uses this forecast in preference to the Met Office Coastal Waters forecast. Being only 24km from Sandy Cape we continued on the next day, rang the Met Bureau for an idea of what was going to happen this week - westerly stream weather and building swells all week. We knew we would not be going anywhere in a hurry. Thurs this week looks like the best day but the swell might be too big for entering Conical Rocks. This is where two kayakers were rescued this summer because the swell was too big, as we seem to be repeatedly told by the locals.

The west coast is certainly an intimidating place; in thirty years of sea kayaking and all sorts of other adventuring and epics in all sorts of places around the world I have never felt so exposed and committed. All it needs though is plenty of food and patience, though if we are held up for much longer it possibly puts the rest of the trip from Strahan in doubt as it may not be prudent to continue south so late in the season. When (if!) we get to Strahan and the outlook is good then we may still go for it as from Port Davey onwards the coast is less committing.

Camped on the beach on Robbins Is just south of Mosquito Inlet. It was a long drag up the beach to get the kayak above the high tide mark, though this was the last camp with a big tidal range.

Our cosy remarkably sheltered spot at Sandy Cape, though we were only there two nights before we headed off to Arthur River.

Lynne had brought a daypack with her so was relatively well equipped for the walk out to Arthur River.

My 'backpack' improvised from 20litre and 15litre dry bags and some rope.

Making good use of the Parks BBQ facilities at Arthur River.

Waiting for our lift back to Sandy Cape.

Sandy Cape beach.

Venables Corner right at the southern end of Sandy Cape beach. Our kayak is just visible to the right of the 4wd track, thankfully just where we left it four days earlier.

Stanley I Presume

A quick few lines from what seems to be Stanley's only internet access, one of these horrible pielink kiosks, no usb so can't post any pics and it eats coins.

Our break in Bridport was a blast with Andrew, Sarah, Ottmar, Elizabeth and Louisa travelling all the way up from Hobart as it was a long w/e. Great meal together at the unit Elizabeth and Ottmar were staying in and another at the 'top' pub on the Sunday night. I would really recomend the meals there. We set off Monday morning as knowing the wx was forecast to deteriorate over the next day or so we were determined to get out of Bridport. Nearly got around East Sandy Cape but it didn't look very inviting with an increasingly big swell so turned back and set up camp for the day. After a big squall the wind almost dropped out completely so we packed up and were out on the water by early arvo reaching the Little Piper River 20km or more further west around West Sandy Cape.

Sat out the gales on Tuesday at the mouth of the Little Piper River and couldn't have asked for a better place to be storm bound. A really nice spot only marred by heaps of rubbish and 4wd damage. The SW headwinds forecast for the following day didn't really eventuate so we got as far as Low Head. Cathy visited us there with in her words a 'little Red Riding Hood' basket of goodies, fresh veg, cake, dried tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and fresh basil. From Low Head to Penguin the next day the wind was good for sailing so we achieved our longest day so far on the trip - 68km as well as having two lunches.

After a strange lunch at Boat Harbour, where we seemed to be the resort's morning attraction, we camped in Rocky Cape National Park, at the last sandy beach west of Sisters Beach, well within reach of Stanley the next morning even without the wind helping us along.

Arrived in Stanley yesterday at high tide after a fantastic sail from Rocky Cape with an ever increasing NE wind and we are here until Monday when the Post Office opens to pick up our next lot of maps to take us to Strahan. Wx still really settled so it is slightly frustrating to be here over the w/e but a few days rest will go down well. Had a lovely roast chicken and vegies for dinner last night, so good to eat roast, and toast for breakfast too.

The usual routine today after a sleep in, fixing little things on the kayak, food stocktake ready to go shopping this afternoon and charging phone, vhf and AA batteries. Wx forecasts now broadcast from Smithton Coastguard at completely different times to Hobart Coast Radio and Tamar Coastguard; we just about start to remember the times when we move into a different broadcast area!

Can't say the N coast of Tas provides much sea kayaking interest though it wasn't as urban as I thought it could be. Camped on the grass just behind the beach at Penguin was very social with lots of dog walkers passing our tent. Sorry no pics, that will have to wait until Strahan - not that we took many since Bridport.

All Stations, All Stations - Double Trouble. Over.

Circumnavigation of Flinders Is completed and after a fantastic morning's sailing from Waterhouse Point, where we camped last night, we are now in Bridport. The north coast and most likely a lot of headwinds beckon.
Feeling really fit and strong now, surprise surprise, after nearly four weeks paddling. Crossed Banks Strait yesterday on an incredibly calm day. Left Spike Bay just about low tide aiming to be on the other side with the flood taking us around Cape Portland, and did it ever as the tides are quite big at present. The flow to the NW must have been 3 or 4 knots, we were aiming 40deg plus off to the south from our intended destination. Lunch on the western side of Cape Portland after four hours on the water. The forecast for the day was for 5 - 15kn NE to NW winds but there was hardly a zephyr all day so no sailing to help us along. Crossing to Waterhouse Point was another 26km crossing, nothing like a morning 26km crossing as a warm up for the same in the afternoon. Serenaded by dolphins in the middle of Ringarooma Bay for about 20mins including a couple that leapt completely out of the water.

On Tuesday we negotiated the Pot Boil, (the SE tip of Flinders) at just the end of the flood tide and only had to navigate around a few offshore breakers over the shallows. By the time we had lunch on Vansittart Is and continued on westward into Franklin Sound the tide had turned and we learnt quite how strong the tidal current was flowing east. We would have been paddling at around 7/8kph but were only making about 2 or 3kph over the ground, and this is at the start of the tide! This is why the Pot Boil is so named, it would be an interesting bit of water when such a current hits say a reasonable sized NE swell, throw in all the shoals and a bit of wind and it is a place you want to keep well away from, in any size boat.

Anyway a quick change of course to the south and we escaped the clutches of the eastward tide and continued on our way along the north coast of Cape Barren Island. All this tidal stuff makes for interesting kayaking EXCEPT when landing a fully laden double at low tide. Quite often the hardest work of the day is one trip up the beach for each of us with our gear for the night, the kayak is then light enough to drag above the high tide line.

Sheltering from the thunder and lightning squall that would have caught us 4km offshore in the middle of crossing a big bay north of Whitemark. I have read too many stories of sea kayakers being hit by lightning to be comfortable in that situation so we headed for the shore for a cuppa.

Lunch stop along the 40km of beach between North East River and Babel Island. We had paddled into the wind for 3 hours only to stop on a section of beach that looked identical to the spot we had left. Babel Is is on the horizon above the rear of the kayak.

Three of the dolphins that escorted us for about 20 minutes in the middle of Ringarooma Bay between Cape Portland and Waterhouse Point.

The hut we camped in on Cat Is (adjacent to Babel Is) in the middle of penguin and muttonbird rookeries. Mathew Flinders named Babel Is because of the cacophony of calls from the bird life. We can attest to the accuracy of this; the racket all night was unbelievable. If the noise reflects the nightlife these birds have then I wouldn't mind coming back as a penguin or muttonbird in a future life.