In The Grips of The Wild West Coast

Well our progress has been well and truly halted by wild west coast weather. We reached Sandy Cape last Thursday and have not moved since; we could have gone on to Conical Rocks but knowing we would be stuck there anyway we decided to stay at Sandy Cape. We also knew we would lose reception of the coastal weather broadcast from Smithton on marine vhf if we headed much further south. We knew it was going to be a good few days so rather than go mad with boredom at the Cape and more importantly eat away literally at the food we have on board we bailed out to Arthur River where there is a shop. This meant travelling very light as Lynne has a day pack and I improvised a pack from 20 litre and 15 litre dry bags. We knew we had to walk at least 28km to Temma before there was any chance of a lift any further; we ended up walking about 35km that day before we stopped for the night in a stockmans hut. This was especially cosy as the strongest of the four fronts we have had pass since Thurs came through that night. Walked another 10km the next morning before finally getting a lift the last 6 kms to 'the River'. The shops there were pretty limited so set up the tent and hitched on to Marrawah and a better stocked shop. Walked about halfway back to 'the river' before getting a lift. I don't think I have walked so far, over 50km over two days for decades, though after 5 weeks paddling the legs could do with some exercise.

Had a day or so rest in Stanley in a very luxurious campground, we baked chicken one night and pizza the next using the camp kitchen facilities. From there we had a long crossing to Robbins Island and a fantastic camp on the beach. The next day the tides were right for heading west around the northern tip of Walker Is and then Woolnorth Point. We had a following current south well past the Doughboys. The swell was very low, about 1.5m but we still had a wake up call when we only just avoided two big breakers over a reef as we approached the Doughboys; there had been no sign of surf at that spot for 15mins or more as we approached. That night we had a comfortable camp on the grass at Green Point before continuing on to Temma the next day. It was here we first started getting an idea from a local fisherman that our dream run of weather was about to end. That evening he printed off for us from BouyWeather the outlook for the next week. He uses this forecast in preference to the Met Office Coastal Waters forecast. Being only 24km from Sandy Cape we continued on the next day, rang the Met Bureau for an idea of what was going to happen this week - westerly stream weather and building swells all week. We knew we would not be going anywhere in a hurry. Thurs this week looks like the best day but the swell might be too big for entering Conical Rocks. This is where two kayakers were rescued this summer because the swell was too big, as we seem to be repeatedly told by the locals.

The west coast is certainly an intimidating place; in thirty years of sea kayaking and all sorts of other adventuring and epics in all sorts of places around the world I have never felt so exposed and committed. All it needs though is plenty of food and patience, though if we are held up for much longer it possibly puts the rest of the trip from Strahan in doubt as it may not be prudent to continue south so late in the season. When (if!) we get to Strahan and the outlook is good then we may still go for it as from Port Davey onwards the coast is less committing.

Camped on the beach on Robbins Is just south of Mosquito Inlet. It was a long drag up the beach to get the kayak above the high tide mark, though this was the last camp with a big tidal range.

Our cosy remarkably sheltered spot at Sandy Cape, though we were only there two nights before we headed off to Arthur River.

Lynne had brought a daypack with her so was relatively well equipped for the walk out to Arthur River.

My 'backpack' improvised from 20litre and 15litre dry bags and some rope.

Making good use of the Parks BBQ facilities at Arthur River.

Waiting for our lift back to Sandy Cape.

Sandy Cape beach.

Venables Corner right at the southern end of Sandy Cape beach. Our kayak is just visible to the right of the 4wd track, thankfully just where we left it four days earlier.