The Aran Islands

Despite the forecasts, there was a break in the strong winds on Monday and we made our escape from the mainland. There was still quite a strong Westerly blowing and big seas from three or four days of 25-40knts SW to W winds. The wind was just the right direction and just dropped enough to get a sail up once out of Liscannor and around Hags Head so we made straight for Innisheer. It's a committing stretch of coast with Cliffs of Moher stretching from Liscannor to Doolin. If it became a bit too much though we knew we could bail out and land at Doolin, one of the very few landing spots along this rocky and cliff lined coast.

It was great to be on the move again, even though it was only three nights ashore it seemed a lot longer. We stopped on Innisheer for lunch before a long plod into the wind past Innishmaan to Kilronan on Innismore. 

Coming into the harbour we spotted a break in the offshore rocks that led to a smooth clean sandy beach; a beach suitable for the trolley to wheel the kayak above the high tide mark. A quick check at the nearest house that it was ok to camp in the field across from the beach and we were cosy in our tent again. 

Lynne called into the house to get some water and returned, some time later, not only with water but a thermos of hot soup and news of her chat with Paddy and Catherine Mullen. 

Paddy, an Innismore local, turned out to have been a fisherman all his life and not only in local waters but around the UK and further afield. His grandfather wrote the book "Man of Aran", which has been made into a film now. Not only fishing boats, but he had skippered the Aran Islands ferry and been Coxswain of the Innishmore lifeboat, resulting in being awarded a number of bravery awards. He had also raced curraghs and had toured the world playing whistle and flute in a Celtic band.

Gale force winds were forecast the following day, Tuesday, so we settled in, exploring the town and reading. 

That night in Paddy and Catherine's living room we were plied with potcheen, hot whiskey and lemon and talked boats -from the similarities between the original skin covered eskimo kayaks and curraghs to fishing boats, sinkings and rescues. Paddy had a beautifully made model of a fishing curragh. And of course, we talked the weather. The ever changing, wild and unpredictable weather of the West Coast of Ireland. Then Paddy got his whistle and flute out for a few tunes. 

It was a late night. 

Wednesday's forecast was for increasing SWesterlies to Force 6-7 but we knew that we had  the chance at least to follow the coast of Innismore to Kilmurvy, the best spot to cross to the Connemara coast 12km to the North. With no sign of the wind building we turned N, both sails went up and we shot across to Golam Hd. A quick stop there for snacks and then onwards again still with both sails up moving along very nicely. Another quick stop on St Macdara Is, where there is a very old small church. St Mac Dara is the patron Saint of the local working sailing boats, Galway Hookers whose skippers even today always dip their sails in respect when passing.

It was one if those days when with a good sailing wind we didn't want to stop for very long especially with the SWesterly steadily increasing so it was 3pm by the time we pulled into the shelter of Dogs Bay for lunch. By the time we'd eaten the wind had picked up even more and the thought of bashing into the wind for a couple of hours to the next possible landing spot wasn't particularly attractive so we searched for a sheltered spot for the tent and settled in again. 

We are in sight of Slyne Hd, the long awaited high pressure system seems to be building with clear skies and gentle Southerlies forecast for at least the weekend so the conditions are looking promising for the Innishbofin, Innishturk, Clare Is, Achill Is island hop. 

The radio weather forecaster stated in an obviously incredulous voice that temperatures would reach low/mid 20s and MAY even go higher over the weekend! 

Catherine Mullen who used to make all the stock for her craft shop in Kilronan.

Our own "Man of Aran", Paddy Mullen

Setting up the oars on the model curragh